Ten years ago, Ryen Phillips appeared at my door on a warm Santa Cruz summer night and announced that he was leaving. He was tired of localism. Tired of surf tourism. Tired of surf politics. His van sat idling at the curb with board bags and camping equipment strapped to the roof. This time he wasn't kidding. For a few years, "Ryen spottings" seemed to reach me regularly, from distant surf breaks in Mexico, Central and South America. Mostly talk of a guy surfing some of the best waves in the world. Surfing alone, and without a care, on some old, yellowing CS surfboards. As time wore on, sightings came less and less, and now it's been many years since there's been any word.Surf Stories is a collection of Ryen's most memorable and entertaining essays about surfing, life, and exploration in Santa Cruz, California.
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