After two days of traveling, I pulled up on Sugar's reins, stared at the trail ahead, turned in the saddle and looked at the dusty trail behind. It looked like silver water running off a duck's back, and the land in front of us seemed to sizzle, like a burning flame. Some of the terrain looked vaguely familiar, but then looking a second time, it didn't look like anything I had seen before. As I took another look, the subtle rise and fall of the...