Don't just see the sights--get to know the people. At first glance, Turkey may seem Westernized and entirely "modern"--but appearances can be misleading. It is above all a land of contrasts, a heady mixture of Oriental etiquette and ultramodern city life, deep-rooted religious faith and determined secularism, a fierce sense of national pride and openness to foreign ideas. The Turkish people are very much their own center of...