The murals, the billboards, the graffiti, the colours on the bars and pubs. No two football cities are the same. That cross on the club badge, commemorating a 1st century fisherman martyr (Ajax). The cemetery (TM) of graves dedicated to the club (TM)s league rivals (Napoli). The guttural roar of fans chanting oeAupa Athletic, aupa Euskal Herria " a fierce declaration of Basque pride and identity, echoing through San Mam (c)s like a battle cry (Bilbao).