There is a moment, somewhere between the descent into Sayak Airport and your first scooter ride down a road lined with millions of coconut palms, when Siargao gets its hooks in you. It happens differently for everyone. Maybe it's the sight of a perfect, hollow right-hand wave peeling across a coral reef at Cloud 9. Maybe it's the first spoonful of fresh kinilaw - raw fish marinated in vinegar and coconut cream - eaten at a street-side eatery while rain drums on a corrugated tin roof. Or maybe it's the slow, salty smile of a local fisherman who waves at you from his bangka as he heads out to sea before dawn.
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