At the heart of South America, Paraguay is a bewildering blend of contrasts. The colonial capital, Asunci?n, now has a burgeoning bar and caf? scene, while its eastern counterpart, Ciudad del Este, is a neon-swathed boomtown. Yet dig a little deeper and a different picture emerges: Jesuit ruins echo with centuries of history, rural families keep craft traditions alive and everything stops as people share a leisurely drink of terer?. And beyond lies...