On February 20, 2016, I stood facing west with my bare feet in the Atlantic Ocean at Cape Henlopen State Park on the Delaware coast. My friend Peter was standing onshore taking my picture - the obligatory, traditional, pants-rolled-up, feet-in-the-ocean, grinning-silly picture for a hopeful traveler like me. Peter was jubilant. I was a little chilly. I was hopeful, though, because the next day I would begin walking from that very spot westward across the North American continent to Point Reyes National Seashore on the western edge of California. There I would dip my toes into the Pacific Ocean and wander the rest of the way home to San Juan Bautista, a hundred or so miles south of San Francisco. Yes, I was hopeful. I was very, very hopeful.
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