"Amory", someone calls motioning to the wave approaching as I
get ready to ride it. As the wave comes, I push off, riding the wave
easily back to the shore as I let the wave fall over me in the end. As
the water envelops me, I listen to the beating of my heart, trying to
calm my mind as I resurface. Taking in a deep breath, I open my eyes,
pushing my hair back as I look to the shore.
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