Bonus Time: Extreme Lives and Second Chances features six compelling biographies. Each story follows the life path of these extraordinary individuals to the moment they faced life greatest challenge, their own mortality. Each pursued their dreams in the surfing world with a passion. Their lives were both propelled and fulfilled thru their learned ability to find calm in the dynamic and powerful realm of big breaking waves. For each of them the raw beauty of surfing provided an escape from the challenges of everyday life. Their adrenaline fueled interactions with the sea led them to form tight bonds with others who pursued their lives in a similar manner. The stories and shared moments that surfers tell one another are the foundation of surfing culture. The stories told in this book are the stuff of legend in this world. Like all human endeavors at the extremes of human ability sometimes when the waves were too big, their abilities too limited and their moments of balance too fleeting they faced the very moment their friends and families feared most. They suffered massive wipeouts, severe injuries and put their own lives in the balance. Many might have left surfing and chalked the experience up to lessons learned. This was not the case for these legendary surfers. Join them on their journey out into the big waves and discover their secrets to a full and meaningful life.
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