As the sun sets, the Bangkok Night and its fabulous Neon comes to life. The air cools, the traffic calms, and Bangkok's faults disappear into a glossy and seductive darkness. Beautiful women and stylish men fill the sidewalks, along with a billion food stalls, a million motorcycle taxis and ten thousands of soi dogs. Music drifts through nighttime breezes scented with jasmine and the smell of spicy smoke. And lighting up every boulevard, street and...