In other places, it might seem trite or clich to say that love is an essential component of cooking, food, and dining. But in the shadow of a still-fuming Vesuvio, the love of everyday life is palpable in Naples: that passion for life is the spirit that guides Neapolitan cuisine. You can taste it in everything. To truly know Napoli and Neapolitan food, you must not stay within its city limits. The entire region may be called Campania, but...